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The Ultimate Guide to the North Coast 500

Your 7 day North Coast 500 itinerary, guide and map

I recently got back from my first NC500 road trip adventure. And when I say it was the best trip I’ve ever been on, I really mean it. We spent seven days travelling the North Coast of Scotland, including a quick visit to the Isle of Skye and Glencoe. We covered over 1000 miles in our camper van.

This detailed guide provides you with everything you need to plan your next adventure on the North Coast 500 and includes top tips, places to eat, stay and sleep, and things we’d do if we were to visit again.

Where to start - when planning the NC500, there is so much to think about. To help, I have mapped out this guide in a linear process, which I suggest you follow when it comes to planning your own trip.

Here are a few quick links in case you need to skip ahead to certain points in your planning:

Planning your NC500 itinerary

When planning your North Coast 500 itinerary, be sure to book accommodation (including campsites) in advance, especially during peak season (June-August). We went in mid-May, and although we could turn up late in the afternoon and still get a space, some campsites (especially those with electric points) were already booked.

If you are travelling in a self-sufficient campervan, be sure to plan where you would like to stop for the night in advance. Even in May, many of the best roadside lay-bys were full by the late afternoon.

It's important to note that many attractions and activities may also require pre-booking, so check in advance.

NC500 route map

We chose the anti-clockwise route starting in Inverness and heading up the east coast to John o’Groats. We found we saved the best parts (mainly the west coast) til last, plus we spent two days exploring the Isle of Skye and parts of Glencoe.

The main NC500 route could be completed in at least six days, including stops at the most famous places. However, anything less may feel like the trip is being rushed, especially if you have to get to a campsite before a certain time.

Getting to Inverness to start the NC500

By train

Inverness has direct rail links to Edinburgh, Glasgow, London, and other major cities in the UK. The journey time from Edinburgh or Glasgow is approximately 3-4 hours, while the journey time from London is approximately 8-9 hours. If travelling from London, check out the Caledonian Sleeper train, an overnight train that leaves London Euston and arrives in Inverness at 08:00 am.

By car or motorcycle

Inverness is easily accessible by car or motorcycle, with good road connections from the rest of Scotland and the UK. We saw hundreds of motorcyclists on the NC500 route, many from the Netherlands and other European countries.

If you do choose to drive, we took the route from Edinburgh through the Cairngorms National Park, including a stop at Balmoral. The Cairngorms were just as spectacular as many parts of the NC500 and are worth visiting.

Car hire

Several car hire companies in Inverness offer a range of vehicles to suit different budgets and needs. Some of the most popular car hire companies in Inverness include:

  • Avis Car Rental

  • Enterprise Rent-A-Car

  • Europcar

  • Hertz Rent A Car



Thanks for reading down this far. I’m really excited to share my latest downloadable NC500 guide which I’ve spent the last few months working on.

It contains all the information you need to plan your own NC500 adventure, including insider tips, must-visit spots, cosy accommodation, and the fun activities I enjoyed.

It comes with a digital Google map with over 100+ recommended locations including attractions, cafes, campsites, beaches plus much more!

Feeling overwhelmed with trip planning? Don’t worry! I've organised this guide in a step-by-step format to make your NC500 dreams a reality.

View guide and map


Campervan and Motorhome Hire

If you're planning to travel the North Coast 500 in a campervan or motorhome, there are a number of hire companies that offer rental services.

Happy Highlanders Camper Hire

Happy Highlanders Camper Hire offers a range of campervans and motorhomes for hire, with pick-up and drop-off locations in Inverness and other cities across Scotland.

Bunk Campers

Bunk Campers is a leading campervan and motorhome rental company, with pick-up and drop-off locations in Inverness, Edinburgh, and other cities across the UK.

Caledonian Campers

Caledonian Campers offers a range of campervans and motorhomes for hire, with pick-up and drop-off locations in Inverness and other cities across Scotland.

Wild Campers

Wild Campers offers stylish and eco-friendly campervans for hire, with pick-up and drop-off locations in Inverness and other cities across Scotland.

Happy Camper Hire

Happy Camper Hire offers a range of retro-style campervans for hire, with pick-up and drop-off locations in Inverness and other cities across Scotland.

Looking down ‘Skyfall Road’ at Glen Etive

Accommodation along the North Coast 500

Caravan, campsites and places to stay

Here are the places we stayed at during our most recent trip. When looking for places to park our campervan for the night or recommended campsites, we used the app Park4Night which includes user reviews, facilities and prices.

This app was super helpful for finding hidden places to park. However, most people on the route were also using the same app, meaning a lot of the best places to stop were often busy by late afternoon.

7-day North Coast 500 Itinerary & map

Day 1: Inverness to Dunnet Head (via John O'Groats)

Estimated journey time: 4 hours. With stops = 5 hours 30 minutes

Contrary to what some reviews and guides might suggest, the East coast of NC500 offers plenty of hidden gems for travellers.

Naturally, the West coast is well known for its breathtaking mountain views, but that doesn't mean the East should be overlooked. From excellent dining options to immersive experiences, the region has much to offer.

Personally, my favourite spot on the East coast was the Whaligoe Steps near Wick. A scenic walk down to the cliff face as waves crash against the rocks.

A very cloudy and grey stop at John O’Groats

Day 1 North Coast 500 Itineracy

Day 1 North Coast 500 route

Top tips for day 1 on the North Coast 500 (NC500)

  • If you have time, take a detour to Cromarty, a charming seaside town full of history and character

  • Allow time to explore Dunrobin Castle, an impressive stately home with beautiful gardens and a falconry display

  • If you are taking a drone, please ensure you are checking for no-fly zones on Drone Assist or Drone Scene before you fly


Downloadable North Coast 500 Guide & Digital Map

My downloadable detailed guide contains all the information you need to plan your own NC500 adventure, including insider tips, must-visit spots, cosy accommodation, and fun activities I enjoyed.

It comes with a digital map with over 100+ recommended locations including attractions, cafes, campsites, beaches plus much more!

Feeling overwhelmed with trip planning? Don’t worry! I've organised this guide in a step-by-step format to make your NC500 dreams a reality.

View guide and map


Day 2: Dunnet Head to Durness

Estimated journey time: 2 hours 45 minutes. With stops = 5 hours

Day 2 of our adventure on the NC500 was full of surprises, including stunning beaches and the chance to spot puffins (although, sadly we didn't see any for ourselves).

After a cosy night camping near Dunnet Head lighthouse, we woke to a thick fog that gradually lifted as we headed towards Thurso, unveiling the beauty of the north coast. One particular highlight was Strathy Beach, where we parked on top of a hill, had lunch and then descended to explore the exposed rocks during low tide.

The last destination was Durness, where we spent the night at Sango Sands Campsite, which is located above the renowned Durness beach—truly one of the finest along the entire NC500 route. This memorable stay at Sango Sands Campsite was one of the highlights of our trip.

Day 2 NC500 itinerary

Misty morning at Dunnet Beach, with distant fog

Strathy Beach

Top tips

  • Visit the Castle of Mey, the former residence of the Queen Mother, for a fascinating glimpse into royal history

  • Stop off at Balnakeil Craft Village for unique, handmade gifts and stunning views of the beach

  • Visit Durness Beach when the tide is out to explore the incredible rock formations


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See this social icon list in the original post

Day 3: Durness to Lochinver

Estimated journey time: 4 hours (with traffic on the small roads). With stops: 6 hours 30 minutes

Day 3 of the NC500 brings a dramatic change in landscape, revealing the grandeur of the Scottish mountain ranges. Many other guides suggest Durness to Ullapool, however we found that with stops, it took us at least 6 hours to get to Lochinver, and that includes setting off at 8am. Therefore my day three suggestion ends in Lochinver.

The road often narrows to a single lane, putting your driving skills to the test. Along the way, you'll encounter the renowned Kylesku Bridge, featured on Top Gear, where you can stop for lunch.

When you reach the village of Newton, you'll face a choice: take the official coastal route via Drumbeg (narrow) or opt for a shortcut to Loch Assynt (a 15-minute drive). Most people choose the official coastal route, but before setting off, it's worth checking out Allt Chranaidh Waterfall (also known as Wailing Widow Falls), a hidden gorge waterfall just a short walk from the road and a minor detour along the A road (see map on right). Although parking is not available by the falls, a small lay-by further up the road allows you to park and make the walk back to admire the falls.

The stretch between Newton and Lochinver, particularly if you take the B road single-track route, marks the true adventure of the NC500, with rugged scenery, imposing mountains and breathtaking views.

Further along the route, you'll come across the charming village of Drumbeg, where facilities like toilets and a café are available, making it a worthwhile stop. One of our favourite snack stops was at The Secret Tea Garden, where we got a slice of cake and hot chocolate with all the extra trimmings.

As we arrived in Lochinver with plenty of daylight remaining, we opted to continue on the official route to Loch Assynt, where we found a suitable lay-by to park for the night.

Quick tip: when we next do the NC500, for day four, we would consider taking the unofficial coastal route from Lochinver to Drumrunie, as others highly recommended it. However, note that this part of the coastal route is narrow, so if you're driving a large vehicle, the official route via Loch Assynt on the main A road may be a more suitable option.

Day 3 NC500 itinerary

Kylesku Bridge, Lairg

Drumbeg Viewpoint with rain in the distance

Day 3: Places to visit and explore

  1. Handa Island, Scourie - A 30-minute loop detour off the main road to explore the Island Reserve

  2. Kylesku Bridge, Kylesku - The Kylesku Bridge, made famous for its appearance on Top Gear, spans a stunning stretch of water and offers a picturesque spot to capture memorable photos

  3. Allt Chranaidh Waterfall (Walling Widow Falls) - The waterfall cascades through a picturesque gorge

  4. Drumbeg Viewpoint - Offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Scottish Highlands coastline, scenic hills and azure waters.

  5. Clachtoll Broch, Lochinver - Nestled amidst the rugged landscape of Assynt, Clachtoll Broch is an ancient stone structure

  6. Achmelvich Beach, Achmelvich - clear blue water, white sandy beaches and surrounded by ragged rocks. This beach is a must on the North Coast 500 and was one of our favourite places on the trip to stop at

  7. The Bone Caves, Inchnadamph - Tucked away in the enchanting Inchnadamph region, the Bone Caves unveil an underground world, housing the remains of long-extinct creatures and providing a unique glimpse into the geological wonders of the Scottish Highlands

  8. Falls of Kirkaig, Lochinver - On the unofficial coastal route, The Falls of Kirkaig near Lochinver cascade down a picturesque gorge, offering a mesmerising display of rushing water surrounded by lush greenery, creating a tranquil and breathtaking scene

Day 3: Places to eat and drink

  1. Cocoa Mountain Cafe, Balnakeil Craft Village Durness - exquisite handmade chocolates, desserts and hot chocolates, all made with the finest ingredients. With its cosy ambience and irresistible treats, Cocoa Mountain Cafe is a must

  2. The Kylesku Hotel, Kylesku

  3. The Secret Tea Garden, Drumbeg - Hidden away in the quiet village of Drumbeg is the Secret Tea Garden and Assynt Aromas, a soap and candle shop. The shop offers a variety of products, including candles, soaps, skincare, home fragrances, and much more. We were greeted with a selection of delicious cakes to choose from, along with the most amazing hot chocolates—perfect for the rainy weather around us.

  4. Lochinver Larder, Lochinver - World famous pies - from meat pies to fish pies, veggie and sweet, the Lochinver Larder has lots of famous pies to choose from

Top tips

  • Take a boat trip to Handa Island, a nature reserve with stunning scenery and wildlife

  • Stop off at Achmelvich Beach for a refreshing dip in crystal-clear waters and enjoy some fish and chips


Quick tip

Download the offline map for Scotland on Google maps as the signal throughout the journey is hit and miss, so you may not always have internet connection.


Day 4: Lochinver to Big Sand (Gairloch)

Estimated journey time: 4 hours. With stops: 7 hours.

This day was the highlight of our trip, filled with majestic mountains, stunning landscapes, and awe-inspiring views. We began by exploring Loch Assynt and admiring the historic Ardverk Castle before making our way to the Knockan Crag Nature Reserve.

We took breaks along the route, capturing photos and immersing ourselves in the beauty of the surroundings. Although we missed the coastal road, we couldn't resist taking a short detour to the Stac Pollaidh viewpoint, which rewarded us with an unforgettable view.

Next, we visited Rhue Lighthouse, where we sat reading our books and watching the fishermen at work. Afterwards, we headed to Ullapool for ice cream and a drink in front of the harbour.

Our journey continued with a stop at the Falls of Measach in Corrieshalloch Gorge, where a Victorian bridge offered a thrilling vantage point of the 60-metre waterfall.

Finally, we made our way to our final stop of the day, Big Sand campsite.

Day 4 North Coast 500 itinerary

Stac Pollaidh Viewpoint in the clouds

Ardvreck Castle

Day 4: Places to visit and explore

  1. Ardvreck Castle, Lochinver - Perched on the shores of Loch Assynt, Ardvreck Castle stands as a majestic ruin surrounded by breathtaking Highland scenery

  2. Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve, Ullapool - we stopped here to make breakfast. Despite the fog, the view over the loch was great, and there were toilet + water facilities, perfect after our previous night’s wild camp in the van. There is also a stunning 2.2km walk with views over Assynt. The trail includes a mix of facts, poetry and activities for children

  3. Rhue Lighthouse - a short detour from the main route, Rhue Lighthouse is worth a visit for its views down Loch Broom and out to sea, including to the Summer Isles. It can be combined with a walk up the road and track to the mast on Meall Mòr to make a longer walk

  4. Ullapool - a great place to stop for ice cream and lunch looking out over the harbour. There is a Tesco and petrol station here too

  5. Corrieshalloch Gorge (Falls Of Measach), Ullapool - a remarkable 60m deep waterfall and scenic trail walk with two viewing points. Managed by the National Trust, this gorge offers excellent facilities and a Victorian suspension bridge with breathtaking views. Prepare for an unforgettable experience, but be wary if you fear heights

  6. Corrieshalloch Gorge Viewpoint - an incredible view over the valley out towards Ullapool

  7. Lael Forest Garden, Ullapool - a great place to stop for short walks. You’ll find species from all over the world here

Top tips

  • Stop and have breakfast at Ardvreck Castle, a ruin on the shores of Loch Assynt

  • Bring a book and sit by Rhue Lighthouse looking out over the bay

  • Lookout for the Highland Coos at Big Sand, Gairloch

Highland Coos at Big Sand

Sunset at Big Sand

Day 5: Big Sand (Gairloch) to Applecross

Estimated journey time: 3 hours. With stops: 4 hours 30 minutes.

Day 5 promises another spectacular adventure, with exhilarating mountain climbs, mouthwatering fish and chips, peaceful fishing villages, and forest walks.

After breakfast and a quick morning swim in the sea at Big Sand Beach, our first stop was Victoria Falls. A short walk from the car park led us to this impressive waterfall, where water cascades down a large slab of rock (allow around 15 minutes to explore).

Next, we went to Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve car park, which provided a great place to view the surrounding mountains. While our current trip focused more on sightseeing, we want to return for longer hikes and enjoy the mountains from above next time.

Continuing our journey, we headed down to Torridon and Shieldaig, two areas worth exploring with charming walks by the water to enjoy.

Our final stop for the day was Applecross, a breathtaking bay nestled amidst the mountains, offering many opportunities to spot deer (we were lucky to witness many deer by the bay during low tide).

At this stage, you're nearing the end of the official NC500 route, so make sure to enjoy the fish and chips at the renowned Applecross Inn (trust me, it's the best fish I've ever tasted!). It's also wise to refuel here before heading over the challenging Bealach Na Ba pass and back to Inverness.

Since we were travelling in our campervan, we decided to do half of the Bealach Na Ba pass before sunset and spend the night at the top by the viewpoint. Little did we know that this spontaneous decision, prompted by positive reviews on the Park4Night app, would provide us with an unexpected adventure…

Day 5: Places to visit and explore

  1. Victoria Falls - the falls are named after Queen Victoria, who visited in 1877 and looks over Loch Maree

  2. Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve - a beautiful place to stop and admire the surrounding mountains, including Slioch and Beinn Eighe

  3. Torridon, Achnasheen - a fantastic place to spot Red Deer, including the famous stag that likes to hang around a car park en route and sit by the cars (he’s called Callum)

  4. Shieldaig, Strathcarron - a charming village located on Loch Shieldag. Sit by the water’s edge and look out over Shieldaig Island or head further down and enjoy a stop at Nanny’s Cafe

  5. The Croft Store, Strathcarron - sells a mix of handmade and local wools. They also offer weaving workshops

  6. Applecross, Strathcarron - one of our favourite places on the entire trip; as you descend the coast road and head towards Applecross Bay, you have the opportunity to see many deer

Day 5: Places to eat and drink

  1. The Mountain Coffee Co, Gairloch - a great place to stop for a morning coffee and cake before hitting the road

  2. The Torridon Stores & Cafe, Torridon

  3. Applecross Walled Garden - restaurant and cafe

  4. Applecross Inn - restaurant and bar. The restaurant was bookings only, and they were very strict about this. However, we were able to get fish and chips from their takeaway van, plus a drink from their bar and sit in their outdoor area in the sun

Top tips

  • Don't miss the opportunity to visit the charming village of Shieldaig (the sat nav won’t automatically take you through the village itself) during your journey. Park by the waterfront and take a moment to soak in the breathtaking landscapes and scenery

At the top of Bealach Na Ba, we witnessed cloud inversions during sunset, creating a magical atmosphere. We parked our van for the night, looking out down the valley as the clouds rolled in.

Cloud Inversions at Bealach Na Ba looking out to Isle of Skye

Drone view out towards Beinn Eighe

Day 6: Applecross to Inverness (via Loch Ness)

Estimated journey time: 2 hours 30 minutes

After a windy night at the top of Bealach Na Ba, we faced the challenge of fixing our roof tent that had been broken with the help of a legend called Nigel from Wales.

Although the thick clouds hindered our descent down from the viewpoint, the fog gradually lifted as we approached the bottom, granting us a glimpse of the road we had just traversed.

We treated ourselves to a well-deserved breakfast at the Waterside Cafe, known for its yummy food and cakes. I went with avocado on toast plus a champion’s breakfast (it lived up to its name).

As a slight detour from the official route, we visited the iconic Eilean Donan Castle before heading towards the Isle of Skye — in a separate guide, I will cover our adventures to the Isle of Skye and Glencoe. But for this one, I’ll cover the route directly back to Inverness. The next stop on our route was Eilean Donan Castle, perched on a rock by Loch Duich. Top Tip: head up to the Eilean Donan Lookout, a couple of hundred metres up the road for the best view of the castle. We parked here for the night on the way back from the Isle of Skye and had a fantastic view.

Before leaving, we couldn't resist getting a few treats at the All The Goodness Coffee & Bakeshop, just a short walk from Eilean Donan Castle. Started in 2008, they sell a wide range of local yummy treats, coffee and cakes. Well worth a stop, we had sticky cinnamon buns and they were amazing!!!

The final leg of our journey took us alongside the picturesque Loch Ness, with opportunities to stop and admire the view, including the majestic Urquhart Castle perched on the loch's edge.

And with that, our trip comes to an end. Should you have any questions, please feel free to contact me through the form below.

Best of luck for your time exploring the NC500!

Eilean Donan Castle

Looking up at Bealach na Ba


Downloadable North Coast 500 Guide & Digital Map

My downloadable detailed guide contains all the information you need to plan your own NC500 adventure, including insider tips, must-visit spots, cosy accommodation, and fun activities I enjoyed.

It comes with a digital map with over 100+ recommended locations including attractions, cafes, campsites, beaches plus much more!

Feeling overwhelmed with trip planning? Don’t worry! I've organised this guide in a step-by-step format to make your NC500 dreams a reality.


Day 7: Add on via Isle of Skye (Optional)

If you’ve got a day spare, I suggest you make your way to the Isle of Skye. While you won’t be able to explore for long, you’ll be able to squeeze in a trip to Portree.


FAQs

Mobile phone signal

Mobile phone signal can be patchy along the North Coast 500, especially in the more remote areas. It's always a good idea to have a backup plan, such as paper maps.

Midges

Midges are tiny flying insects that can be a nuisance during the summer months. Be sure to pack insect repellent and wear long sleeves and trousers when hiking or spending time outdoors. Additionally, midge nets can be a helpful way to keep them at bay.

Kit list for traveling around the North Coast 500

As mentioned, it's essential to bring the right kit especially if you’re planning a few walks. Here's a list of essential items to bring:

  • Waterproof jacket and trousers - even in the summer, taking a waterproof jacket that offers protection from the wind is key

    • We had everything from heavy rain and hail through to incredibly warm days (and I got sunburnt while sitting in our campervan). You don’t need to spend a lot of money, but if you are going to be hiking often then investing in a good waterproof may be a good idea

  • Warm layers (fleece, hat, gloves) - gloves come in handy when navigating rocky sections and the route turns into a scramble

    • I have both hat and gloves from the brand SealSkinz and they are fantastic

  • Maps and guidebooks

    • The NC500 route is well sign-posted, however, a downloaded version of both your route and itinerary is helpful (don’t forget to download this guide as a PDF above)

    • I recommend this guide book as it was fantastic with lots of information

  • Food and water

    • Kendal Mint Cake is my favourite snack for any walk and is a famous snack still made in the Lake District

  • Sunscreen and Bug Spray

    • If travelling during the summer, midge repellent is a must!

  • First aid kit - a small mix of plasters, Savalon (for bites and stings) and antiseptic wipes will do

  • Mobile phone (with a full battery) + portable charger.

  • Camera and/or binoculars

    • The views are INCREDIBLE. I took hundreds of photos throughout the trip, which can be seen here or if you’d prefer a video, you can watch my NC500 videos here